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I have a 2002 Extended cab Dodge Dakota SXT 4X4 which is powered by a 3.9 Magnum V6. I use this vehicle as my daily driver as well as my tow vehicle when I race my 451 stroker big block powered 1988 dakota. The whole combination with my 2002, the trailer and my 1988 dakota, tools and myself is 9,800 LBS.

The truck has 265/70R16 tires and 3.92 gears with an automatic transmission. Modifications I have made to the truck list as follows.

8mm Taylor Spark Plug Wires
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
Cold Air Induction
Relocated Intake Air Temp sensore to the Cold Air Induction Tube
1 1/2" Stainless Steel Shorty Headers
New Y pipe with new replacement CATs.
3" Dynomax CAT-Back Exhaust
Custom Built 2600 RPM Stall speed APS Precision Torque Converter with a 1.95 Multiplication Stator.

Initially, the truck responded very well to the mods and I notices a huge increase in lowend torque...but, soon after, the gains I was seeing seemed to kind of diminish and I noticed that my nice stainless steel headers are now a brilliant blue with some purple, which is a tell tail sign that its lean. The truck tows well, but it still feels like there was a lot more torque there when I first made the modifications.

Another thing that I've noticed is if i smash the accelerator to the floor from a stand still, it initially leaps forward very hard, then there is this "bog" or hesitation so to speak for a bout a second...then the engine wakes up and begins pulling again. Maybe Timing or Fuel?

Is the computer contradicting or working against the mods I've made? If so, would a Superchips Flashpaq correct some or most of the issues I'm experiencing?

What would I expect to see my truck do differently if I was to use a Superchips tuner?

Thanx,
Shawn
Buffalo NY

I would start by finding out the problem first.

I would remove the battery terminals for 30mins and then reinstall them. See if the truck runs any better. If it does, then I would drive it until it starts to bog again and get the computer codes checked.

If it does not run any better, check for a intake manifold leak, (very common on that motor)

You can use the old fashion method of ether around the throttle body and manifold while idling the motor. If no change, I would take the throttle body off and if there is any oil or soot in the manifold you have a leak.

Ron

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Actually, I have done all of that. I had the TB off and cleaned that about a month ago and the inside the intake manifold looks ok... The only soot or oil is from the breather on the passeneger side of the engine which goes to the intake "hat" on top of the throttle body.

I've also checked for an intake leak and the engine didnt change RPM at all, so I'm assuming all is well at the throttle body and the manifold. I also have an Actron Super Scanner and it shows no codes at all.

I havent tried disconecting the battery yet so I'll give that a try and see what happens.

The thing is that the engine runs great. It has a nice smooth idle and from a roll, it pulls smooth and clean thru the RPM range of every gear. Its just that one spot off idle where it has that hesitation and the slight "Blue'ing" of the pipes that have me concerned.

I was wondering if maybe the computer with its factory settings is actually being "counter productive" so to speak? Like maybe the computer isnt sure about how to respond or adjust to the new mods (high stall torque converter, headers, Cold Air Induction, the free flowing exhaust system) and its leaning out the mixture and altering the timing so that it sees the results it wants to see comming back from the O2 sensors?

Basically, I'm wondering if the computer is working against me?

Thanx Ron! Your input is much appreciated!

Shawn

If you had good operation with the mods for a good time, I would say that they are not the culprit.


The bluing of the headers, that is not a total confirmation to me. Have we checked the plugs to see how they look?

That truck doesn't have a cap and rotor does it?

Cai, catback exhaust, shorty headers are not going to lean it out to much in my opinion.

If you do the battery deal, and the truck does not change for the better, then we may have a hard part problem. How does it idle? Bumbling? Suging? any at all?

I ask because if the idle air control valve is not returning fully or fast enough, it could cause the stumble off idle.

Ron

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I did the battery thing last nite and for a good solid 10-15 minutes the truck ran just just like it did when I made the modifcations. Tons of power off idle and no hesitation. I checked for codes and it didnt show any. After driving for about 30-40, it went right back to where it was. Thats the other thing... in the morning, this truck has a more power than it usually does... I understand that the computer is running a rich mixtuer to get things up to operating temperature faster and I have to say that it doesnt have any hesitation when its cold either, but Im not sure...I'll check this morning. I wish this thing would run like that all the time.

Like I said before, the engine has a nice smooth idle and typically pulls nice and clean thru the RPM range after it gets past that hesitation.

What do the plugs look like. (for lean or rich running)

The only true way find out whether it is running lean is either a good scan tool to look at the fuel trims. Or a tail pipe sniffer, to read the AFR.

If it is lean you could use a lower t-stat to get the fuel up.



With our tuning we advance the timing and typically lean the AFR to make power. So obviously if you are lean now and use the tuning, you will probably detonate.

Ron

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I pulled no1. plug and it looks like its burning clean Tannish with a little hint of grey. Looks like its a nice clean burn. No carbon or signs of a lean mixture. i wonder if the pipes are just showing slight signs of heat? I've never had stainless steel pipes before... I was told that when they start turning blue, it was signs of a lean mixure... The thing is I know that these engines do run kinda lean as per the EPA. I'm really at a loss. When its cold, the engine throws the truck around like a V8 would and pulls extremely hard which is what I expected it to do all the time....but when it warms up, it just dogs out of the hole and develops that hesitation. I'd like to get this truck to make the power it does when the engine is cold... For some reason, I keep thing that the computer is my achilles heel here. I've never played with a computer comtrolled vehicle so I really don't know how they react to mechanical mods like I've made.

The other thing is that I tow my other truck with the '02 so I'm also thinking that the blueing is partly the result of that because the spark plugs look clean. Like I said before, when the engine is cold, there is no hesitation and the truck makes a lot more torque, once it gets up to operating temp, that added power goes away and the truck develops that slight hesitation off idle. Would a Flashpaq help this truck with lowend power off idle? I'm not looking for anything to set a speed record here, just more torque for towing.

The towing tune would defiantly help in towing.

It may take care of the issue. We always have a 30 day money back trial period with our products.

Ron

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